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DIY Wood Log Projects To Add A Rustic And Natural Feel To Your Home

September 19, 2017 by adminPO

There is something about wood and logs in particular that give an enchanting vibe to it. Probably because Mother nature herself is very much fascinating and has been fondly linked with fairies, leprechauns, elves, dwarfs and such. Bring this kind of magic to your home by making use of the logs and stumps you see in your backyard. Gear up and prepare to dramatically transform your home, like magic!

DIY Wood Log Projects To Add A Rustic And Natural Feel To Your Home

Let your imagination work as you travel through familiar fairytales with the sight and scent of wood. Logs and wood stumps are definitely stable and sturdy pieces, so they are great additions to your home through useful and magical DIY projects. For sure, you can still save a space for a functional table, be it for the sides or a coffee table. Your wall can also use a wood clock like from the seven dwarfs’, or a mirror decorated with logs around it transforming it into like a magic mirror. There is so much more you can make out of logs, and we have rounded up some easy projects you can try right away!

1. Natural Log Pathway

Image via sewwoodsy

Fix your pathway using logs like this project. Your kids are going to love stepping on each stump, pretending that they’re on their way to the enchanted castle. Click here for the full tutorial of this project.

2. Handrail

Image via countryliving

Got some long log outside? Make use of it by having it as a handrail for your stairs. Make sure to sand it first to avoid getting hurt from splinters. Details of this project here.

3. Tree Stump Log Planter

Image via hometalk

A beautiful way to make use of your logs is by making it into a planter found in your backyard. They look like they magically grew straight out of it! For the full details of this log project, click here.

4. Wood Stump Coffee Table

Image via thriftyandchic

Simply transform your stump into a coffee table like this. Sturdy and unmoveable, this is the perfect place to lay down your cups of tea. For the full details of this DIY Project, click here.

5. DIY birch logs tea light holders

Image via baliblinds

These tea light holders are definitely stable, mainly because they are made out of birch! They will glow mysteriously in the night when light up and look like fairies. They’ll work like a charm to your little girls. See tutorial of this project here.

6. Climbing Wall Play Set

Image via wifemothergardener

Logs and wood stumps aren’t only for indoor functions because they can be a source of leisure! Is this Peter Pan’s Tree House where the Lost Boys used to hang? Click here for more details of this DIY wood project.

7. Wood Clock

Image via designsponge

A wood clock will be an interesting addition to your wall space. Find your kids reading the clock for you most of the time, especially if they think that this chunk of a clock was a gift from a tinker fairy. See details of this project here.

8. Log Lounger

Image via Homemade Modern

Get cozy in your chair made out of logs! (Yes, it’s possible) Click here to get the tutorial on this log lounger project.

9. Hanging Lamp

Image via ikeahackers

Another way to make use of your spare birch is by using it as a table lamp! You’ll never suspect a log to be hanging around there. What an idea! Click here to know how to replicate this log project.

10. Tree Stump Tables

Image via Somewhat Quirky Design

With wood stumps as your tables, it’s like running a meeting with the knights of the round table. Have endless conversations with your children here as they warm up to the idea of logs everywhere! Details to this project here.

11. Side Table

Image via stylebyemilyhenderson

This stylish piece is proudly made from a log. This deserves a spot in your home. More details here.

12. Log Planter

Image via jeffhendricksondesign

This DIY planter might just be what you need in your backyard. This is also an excellent gift to give! Get the tutorial here.

13. Mirror with Wood

Image via The Owner-Builder Network

Your mirror can definitely be as interestingly decorated as this project, by only using logs! Full tutorial of this DIY log project, click here.





Filed Under: Create & Decorate, Easy Wood Projects

How To Build a DIY Upholstered Headboard and Bed Frame

September 19, 2017 by adminPO

How To Build a DIY Upholstered Headboard and Bed Frame

How To Build a DIY Upholstered Headboard and Bed Frame

How To Build a DIY Upholstered Headboard and Bed Frame

 

 

Love tufted headboards? This DIY upholstered headboard project is for you! You can make a do it yourself upholstered headboard and DIY platform bed frame with a few steps and materials. Learn how with our easy to follow step by step tutorial.   This DIY upholstered headboard and bed frame can be put together in one afternoon. You can have your hardware store cut the wood for you to save time  and then assemble everything at home.

Building your own DIY furniture has a lot of advantages. So many options are available when we build things ourselves: You can choose the size, color, the materials used, etc. So be creative with the stain you select or a fun fabric! Let those jaws drop when they learn that YOU built this bed ;). We chose white fabric, but you can choose anything you like to match your home decor and create the ultimate beautiful shabby chic DIY bedroom. Let’s start by learning how to make a DIY headboard!

 How To Make A DIY Upholstered Headboard

 

Headboard Supplies:

  • 1 sheet of Ply wood  ¾” thick
  • 1 2×4” @ 8’ Long
  • 2” thick Foam
  • Batting (Tip: I doubled mine to flatten out the seams in the foam, so get extra)
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Washers and wood screws
  • Decorative Nail Heads

Bed Supplies:

  • 4 1×6” @ 8’ Long
  • 6 1×2” @ 8’ Long
  • 1 4×4” @ 8’ Long
  • Stain
  • Bed Rail Brackets (I use these: http://www.rockler.com/no-mortise-bed-rail-brackets)
  • Pocket Hole Screws (1 ¼” coarse thread)

 

 Step 1

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Begin by determining the size of the headboard you want to build. I made mine 62″ x 36″. Get your 3/4″ plywood cut down to your size (62″x36″ if you’re using these measurements).

 

 Step 2

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Cut your 2″ foam to fit the plywood base. You can piece together foam here, all the batting and fabric will smooth it out. Using spray adhesive, glue your foam in place.

 

Step 3

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Spread your batting over a clean large work surface. Place the headboard face down on the batting. Using a staple gun with 1/2″ staples, begin on one of the long sides and staple the batting around the edge of the back of the plywood.

Do the other long side next, be sure to pull snugly. Repeat on both short sides and smooth and pull snugly while stapling. Once you have the batting attached smoothly, flip it over and you are ready for fabric!

 

Step 4

The next step is marking out where you will want all the tufts. I used large nail heads, so I wanted them adequately spaced to avoid looking crowded. Make a grid with a light colored maker (so that it won’t show through your fabric) right on the face of the batting. Pictured is my grid with where I planned to put the tufts.

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Once you are happy with the spacing you choose, lay your fabric over the batting. Trim the fabric so that is hangs 6″ past the plywood back.

 

Step 5

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Starting with the center “dot”, take you 3/4″ wood screw and 1/4″ washer and using a power screw gun and push firmly though the batting and foam till you feel the ply wood, screw in most of the way, but don’t over tighten.

 

Step 6

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Continue with each tuft working from the center and moving out. Tip: Lift up the fabric to line the screws with the dots of your grid.

 

Step 7

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Once you have the all the tufts in place, flip the headboard over to staple the fabric to the back.

 

Step 8

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Make sure to match the tightness of the tufts to how tight you pull the fabric before stapling.

 

Step 9

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The last step for the headboard portion is to attach some 2×4″s to the plywood for attaching the headboard to the bed frame in a later step.

 

 

Now it’s time for the bed frame! I made a queen size bed (60″x80″ mattress). If you are making a different size, add or subtract the difference to all measurements for the new dimensions.

 

Cut list:

  • (2) 1×6″ : 81″ Long
  • (2) 1×6″ : 61″ Long
  • (2) 1×2″ : 79″ Long
  • (2) 1×2″ : 81″ Long angled at 45 degrees off square (Tip: cut these boards after you have the bed frame together so that you can get the exact measurements to get the 45 degree angles flush)
  • (4) 4×4″ : 8″ long

 

Step 10

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Start with the 1×6″ boards to make the . Attach one 1×2″ along the bottom edge of the 1×6″, glue, clamp, and screw using 1 1/4″ wood screws. Repeat for the other cleat.

 

Step 11

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Make 3/4″ pocket holes along the upper edge of both cleats to attach the trim in a later step. With the 61″ 1×6″s, drill the 3/4″ pocket holes in only one board, the foot board. Attach the 4×4″ leg to both 1×6”s using 2″ PH screws and wood glue.

 

Step 12

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I used Bed Rail brackets that I get from Rockler.com. I like that I can take apart the bed as many times as I need without worrying about weakening the wood. I find that this bracket works better than the eye hole ones, very sturdy and easy to put together. I have not been able to find these in a hardware store yet, only online so far.

 

Step 13

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Follow the directions on the brackets to assemble the bed. Once the bed is together, check for square and measure your 1×2″ trim pieces to make a 45 degree cuts for the “picture frame” corners. Attach the trim to the 1×6″s using 1 1/4″ PH screws.

 

Step 14

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Step 15

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And the bed frame is built! Now time to finish it:)

 

Step 16

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For a wood stain finish, sand with 120 grit sandpaper and clean off dust with a vacuum or micro fiber cloth. I used Rustoleum Wood stain in Dark Walnut. Brush on the stain with a natural fiber brush, and wipe off with a cloth after 2-3 minutes for the stain to soak in.

 

Step 17

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Step 18

After the bed is set up with the mattress on, you can adjust the headboard height by moving the 2×4″s up or down. Once the height is set, clap the legs to the back of the bed, and attach the from the back using 3″ wood screws. If your headboard is over 40″ tall, you may want to attached the headboard to the wall if you find it having a slight tilt forward. To do so, use large “D” rings and picture hangers to anchor to the wall.

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And you’re done! Enjoy your handy work and happy DIY-ing!

Filed Under: Create & Decorate, Easy Wood Projects

Rustic Furniture Tutorial | Workbench Plans | DIY Pipe Leg Table

September 19, 2017 by adminPO

feature-rustic workbench

Want to build a beautiful table but don’t know where to start? Do you love rustic and/or industrial design and want an inexpensive and easy way to make your own DIY furniture?

Today, we are going go over how simple it is to make a metal pipe table, which can be a perfect workbench for the garage and even a stunning dining room table (with just a little extra work). The great thing about metal pipe tables is that they are very simple to make. Some people spend thousands of dollars on these tables by buying pre-made ones, when in reality it only costs AT MOST a couple hundred bucks in supplies.

Even less if you how to scrounge for parts like a pro.

We’re also going to go over a lot of information on safety tips not normally covered on other sites, so if you plan turn this project into a dinner table, read on!

Rustic Furniture Tutorial | Workbench Plans | DIY Pipe Leg Table

Supplies you will need to make this metal pipe table

  • (x3) –  30-inch lengths of 2×4 douglas fur* (Support Beams)
  • (x3) –  6ft lengths of 2×12 douglas fur (Table Top Boards)
  • (x1) –  Box of 2 1/2-inch Wood Screws
  • (x1) –  Belt sander
  • (x1) –  Basic drill with a bit for your screws and small bit to pre-drill with
  • (x1) –  Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler Max Stainable ( or any quality wood filler that is also stainable)
  • (x1) –  Quart of wood stain or paint of your choice
  • (x1) –  Polyurethane scratch resistant sealer
  • (x4) – Chip brushes (a cheap throwaway brush available at any hardware or paint store)
  • (x1) – Roll of paper towels or throwaway rags
  • (x2) – 1-inch black steel pipe threaded tees
    • *Douglas fur is the standard framing lumber you find at most supply stores. It is cheap and easy to work with, but you are by no means limited to this type of wood.

Metal Pipes & Hardware (ALL 1-inch diameter)

  • (x8) –  Threaded iron floor flanges
  • (x4) –  24-inch length threaded black steel pipes
  • (x2) –  18-length of threaded black steel pipes
  • (x4) –  8-inch length threaded black steel pipes

Step 1: Prepare your supplies

The table we built will be 40-inches high from the floor to the top of the table, 6 feet long, and 34.5 inches wide, but you can obviously change the specs to get your desired height, width, and length. Don’t worry if you build one that ends up being too tall or short, as the great thing about pipe tables is it’s easy to swap out new sections of pipe for shorter or longer sections to adjust your final product.

Once you have all your lumber cut to the sizes listed above , you should have a pile of supplies looking like the below images.  We are ready to go! Again, feel free to alter your measurements for longer, shorter, or wider tables, etc. 

You can also use reclaimed wood for this project if you would like, but please do your research on where your reclaimed wood has been…… You don’t want to use reclaimed wood from a local chemical plant for your new dinning table or you might grow wings or something. Which actually would be pretty cool, but still!

Pipe_Table-more-8787

Pipe_Table-more-8793

Step 2: Preparing the table top

Once we have all our table top boards cut to size, we lay then down on ground. Like a puzzle, we are going move our boards down till we find the edges (sides) that line up the best without large gaps. Douglas fur is an inexpensive lumber available at almost every lumber supply store out there, but it also tends to have a fair amount of variability in it in term of straightness. Get your three table top pieces lined up nice and even, if you’re lucky you won’t even need clamps to make all the seams touch.

Note that the side facing down on the floor is the “top” of table surface, while the surface we are looking at is where we will drill and screw on our support beams. So make sure you are looking at the uglier face of the boards when they are on the floor, because that means the prettier side is going to be what you see when the table is all done.

Pipe_Table-more-8803

Step 3: Clamping for perfection

We are next going use our large clamps at each side of our arranged table top and clamp the three 2×12 as tight possible to keep the edges together in place while we install the support pieces. This is optional, but big clamps like these are great to have for all manner of woodworking projects, and they will also spare your neighbors from having to help you every time  you build something. You can find these 48-inch clamps at any major hardware store and they usually run around $18 a piece.

Pipe_Table-more-8814

Pipe_Table-more-8811

Step 4: Laying out table top supports

Once our table top is clamped together, we lay out our 3 support pieces across the 3 table top boards (Remember we are still working on what will be the BOTTOM of the table surface). We set our first 30-inch 2×4 along a line 7 inches back from the edge of the table and gave it a 2-inch gap on either side, this way we won’t readily see the supports when the table is flipped over.

Pipe_Table-more-8815

Pipe_Table-more-8813

The center support is placed dead center on the underside of the table, with that same 2-inch gap on the edges of each side. With our 6-foot table, that meant the center beam lay right over the 36-inch (3-foot) mark.

Pipe_Table-more-8852

Step 5: Drilling the supports into place

Once the support beams are in place, take your drill with a pilot bit (we used a 1/8th-inch pilot bit, but you can use just about any size so long as it is relatively close to the width of your screws WITHOUT being wider than them) and pre-drill pilot holes for your wood screws into the support beam. We start by holding the support beam in place, then drill and drive a screw in place on each side of the beam ends. This will keep the beam in place as you drill and drive in the other screws to hold the table top surface board to the supports.

We spaced our screws so that each of the 2×12 table top boards received four screws each PER support board. Repeat this until all the beams are secured and so each 2×12 board should have 12 screws all together holding it to the 3 support boards, for a total of 36 wood screws used.

Pipe_Table-more-8817 Pipe_Table-more-8823 Pipe_Table-more-8825

Pipe_Table-more-8851

Step 6: Preparing the pipe!

We have “finished” our raw table top. Now we will need to grab our pipes now and assemble the table leg sections before we screw anything onto the table top.  You will end up with 2 H-shaped legs. 

NOTE ON CHEMICALS: The steel pipe parts can come rather sticky with oil from the factory (the oil is used to cut the metal and protect it against rust). The oils used by companies can vary, but some can contain trace amounts of lead mixed in the oil.

Consequently, if using this table indoors around kids, take the time to clean each pipe thoroughly using steel wool to scrub the pipes all over with a good liquid soap. You can then grab a rag and rub in some of the polyurethane we are going to apply to the table later, which will make the pipes sealed and safe from prying fingers.

In this tutorial, however, we were going more for a fancy workbench version, so there wasn’t much use in sealing the pipes, though we did wipe them up with a rag to clean everything so at least our hands wouldn’t get too dirty touching the pipes in the future. 

Step 7: Creating the bases

Grab all of the 24-inch pipes (4 in total) and screw a floor flange into one side. Don’t worry about cranking anything down,  just hand-tighten them.

Pipe_Table-more-8800

Pipe_Table-more-8854

Pipe_Table-more-8858

Step 8: T is for Table

Now add your Tee pipe sections onto the 4 legs

Pipe_Table-more-8859

Step 9: More support

Now screw your (x2) 18-inch pipe sections into two of the Tee’s, which will give you two pipe combinations in the shape of an L.

Pipe_Table-more-8861

Step 10: Bringing it together

Now take one of the the other 24-inch pipes which currently has JUST the floor flange and the Tee on it and screw that into the other end of your 18-inch pipe. You will need to spin the full leg to attach the other side to the pipe already attached to the first Tee. You’ll end up with two pipe configurations in the shape of a U (or lower case n…or a badly drawn C….you get the idea).

Pipe_Table-more-8865

Step 11: Add the adjustable sections

To finish building the leg, grab the 8-inch pipes and thread them into the top of the Tees.

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Cap it off by adding your other two floor flanges to the ends, and you have your “H” leg.

Step 12: Repeat

Repeat above steps until you have 2 legs (or more if that’s how you like to party). Again, don’t over-tighten your bottom leg sections. Just a nice hand tightening will be fine.

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Step 13: Attaching the H legs to the underside of the table

Once you have your legs assembled, place them on the support beams so that the LONGER (24-inch) pipes are touching the table.

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Center the legs so that the flanges on either side are equidistant from the edge of the 2×4 supports. In this case you should have about 3 inches on either side.

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Mark with a pencil were the pipe flange holes meet the wood, or just have someone hold the pipes in place while you drill.
Pre-drill the holes and drive in your 4 wood screws to attach the legs to the wood table top.

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Step 14: Repeat for the three remaining flanges.

Once all four flanges are screwed down and secured to the able, go ahead and flip that bad boy over

Step 15: Leveling the table

Now if your table legs are not level (or, in our case, if the floor is really not level) you will need to adjust the legs to keep the table solidly in place.  All you have to do is turn the bottom pipe sections until the flanges on every leg sit firmly on the floor.

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Step 16: Optional sanding

We are using new lumber that wont need much sanding for our use, but if you’re using weathered reclaimed lumber, then you may need to sand…a lot. Most parts of our table are very flat, so we just needed to go around sanding the corners of the boards so they were a little rounded. This was primarily so it would hurt less when we eventually smacked our heads on the edges after dropping a tool.

Sanding can be an all day affair if you’re going for baby bottom smoothness, but if you just need to do a cursory treatment to avoid any rough edges, you shouldn’t need to spend more than 10 minutes on this table. If you feel any rough burs, go over that part of the wood till you don’t. Make sure to also sand away any dirty fingerprint or shoe marks or these will forever be a part your table after you stain it.

If you need/want to do a lot of sanding, get yourself a belt sander with at least a 3×21-inch belt. Make sure you sand ALONG the grain (in the same direction as the lines of the wood run) or you’ll get big sanding marks all over. Since our table is nice and flat across already, we just used a small “mouse” sander with a 120-grit sanding disc attached. Even this little dude will make fast work of sharp edges and leave you with a nice smooth finish.

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(Left) Belt Sander     (Center) Sanding Dust Mask     (Right) Mouse sander

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Step 17: Staining

To start staining (or painting if you want to paint it a solid color), we use a damp paper towel over our table top to clean off any saw dust or particles that may interfere with staining. Don’t bother buying expensive brushes for staining, just grab some of the $1 chip brushes at the hardware store, throw on some gloves, and have some rags or paper towels handy.

Using chip brushes, we paint on thin coats of stain and go over each area with the rag to clean up any pooling. I like to let the stain sit for 30 seconds or so and then wipe away with a clean paper towel. This lets the wood grain and knots soak up the dark stain, then by wiping it we take stain off areas higher than the knots, leaving you with a lighter wood with dark accents of grain and knots.

Let your stain dry for the recommended time listed on the can being used. 

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Damp enough to get the saw dust to stick, but not enough to leave damp marks on the wood. Your wood needs to be dry to fully soak up the stain evenly.
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You wont need too much stain on your brush, it goes a long way.

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Step 18: Optional filling

Using new wood like we are, the only major area to fill would be the gaps in between each board running down the table. We used a wood filler to help fill in these long gaps. When using reclaimed wood, if you want a very smooth surface you may find yourself sanding and using a lot more filler  than we did.

I decided to fill the seams AFTER we stained because I liked the variance in color it gives the table. You may prefer to fill before you stain, which is fine. Just make sure your filler says “stainable” on the front.

 

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Cup of water, Elmer’s Carpenter Wood Filler, gloves if desired, and lots of paper towels. Lets fill those gaps that are just waiting to trap messy gunk in them.

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After 4 or 5 passes over it, it should look like this, nice and smooth. Take time, it can be a messy step your first try, but as you go it will be very easy. This Elmer’s filler is really just wood glue, fast drying agents, and saw dust, so it cleans up easy with just soap and water.

OPTIONAL: Stain Touch up

After cleaning up the filler and removing any excess residue, you may still notice some white residue around the edges that look a lil’ funky. This is an easy fix and common when using filler. Take your stain and apply a small amount to a rag, then run it over the areas that have the white ashy look. Soon it will disappear, while leaving the filler in the gaps clean of stain.

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The small traces of filler stuck in the low grain of the wood make the white ashy look around the edge of area just filled.

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Step 19: Sealing

After letting the stained wood dry for the recommended time suggested by the stain manufacturer. we take our can of polyurethane sealer and do several coats, building up a thick coat to protect the wood. After all, this is going to be a work bench, so we know its going take a beating.

Sealing is easy and you can just use additional chip brushes for this purpose (good thing these brushes are so cheap!). Lather the wood up with a milky white coat of your poly, brushing it on heavy, and wait about 30 minutes. It will be relatively clear but still tacky by that time, so you can go ahead and hit it again with another coat. Three-to-four coats will be enough for normal use, but seven or eight might be needed if you really plan on beating this thing up.

If making this table for a dinning table surface, you will want to make sure the poly sealer you use is safe, or use a food grade “bar top epoxy” like they do in many bars & restaurants. Just go to a real paint store (not a big box) and ask, they will show you which eco products to use.

Let the clear coat dry for AT LEAST 24hours (longer dry time in cold temps) before placing anything on top of the table. Even if it seems fully dry to the touch, items over the course of only a few hours will become stuck somethin’ fierce to your finish. I learned that the hard way when making my first table!

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Step 20: Enjoy!

And there’s your gorgeous table, perfect for a man cave, kids room to study on, craft table, gardener’s potting table, a sultry dining room pub table, or just about anywhere else. The only limits are your imagination! And also square footage.

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This version is with only using our stain, with out the optional filling and clear coat. Don’t forget, if you plan use this for serving food on, you will need to use a food safe clear coat.

 

Filed Under: Create & Decorate, Easy Wood Projects

How To Create A Pallet Wood Wall Art Sign

September 19, 2017 by adminPO

Do you ever wonder how to create those lovely weathered wood wall art signs that you see on Pinterest? We can show you how to create this awesome DIY project in a few simple steps. The most tedious part? Going out and scouring your neighborhood for some disposed shipping pallets. We recommend checking our article on How To Know If A Shipping Pallet Is Safe. There are plenty of safe ways to use shipping pallets and the best part is that they’re generally free. Of course, you can source them from eBay if you really wanted to.

Pallet Wood Wall Art

Bring your favorite inspirational or literary quote to life with this hand-painted, charmingly rustic DIY project.  With a little elbow grease, some artistic flair, and simple supplies, you can make this stunning wall art for any room in your house!

Supplies:

  • -Weathered Old Pallet
  • -White + Brown Acrylic Paint
  • -Delicate Paint Brush for Fine Detail Work
  • -Old Barn Hinges (Check your local architectural salvage shop for great, rusty old hinges)
  • -Long Nails (I used 2” nails)
  • -Printed quote of your choice (described in more detail in Step 6)

General Tools:

  • -Hammer
  • -Rubber Mallet
  • -Chop Saw (or Hand Saw, if you don’t have an electric chop saw)
  • -Scotch Tape
  • -Duct Tape
  • -Pencil
  • -Paint Mixing Bowl

Step 1.

Use your rubber mallet to pound apart the pallet.  Because I picked a pallet with lots of natural age and even a bit of wood rot, for that extremely weathered look, I had some trouble pulling it apart (the rust on the screws did not want to budge!)  Using the rubber mallet and hammer intermittently worked well, but took some elbow grease.  Use the rubber mallet to pound the boards from behind, forcing the nails out of the three support beams.

Notice that my pallet really took a beating when I pulled it apart – some pieces even split into chunks.  That’s okay!  It’s all part of that great, weathered and character-chiseled look that you’ll get in the finished project.

Step 2.

Taking all of your disconnected pallet-top pieces (you’ll notice that we’re not yet using the three back-brace boards – those come later), arrange them attractively together to form your wooden “canvas”.  I ended up using all of the top boards, because I wanted a nice, big finished project, but you can use as few or as many as you’d like, depending on what size you would like your art to be in the end.

Step 3.

Lay your three back-boards across your new pallet arrangement.  Naturally, since we slid all of the boards together and removed the gaps between them, the back-boards are now much too long.  No worries, we just have to cut them!  But first, you need to mark the correct length.  I’d recommend lining up the back boards so that they won’t come quite to the edge – that will give the whole piece a “floating” look when it is mounted onto the wall in the end.  Use a pencil to mark your cut lines.

Step 4.

If you have a chop saw, then your work will be a snap.  If you have a boring old hand saw like I do, gear up your favorite radio station, because we’ll be sawing for a few songs!  Make sure to do a nice, straight cut, and remove any splinters and nails from the board so that it’s ready to safely sit flush against your wall when everything is done.

Step 5.

The great thing about hammering all of the boards into place for this step is that we’ve already got nail holes!  Once you have three neatly sliced back-boards from step 4, you’ll want to carefully slide them into position underneath all of the other boards. Originally, they will have been attached with the narrow side flush against the front boards, but you’ll want to turn them on their sides – that is, with the widest side facing up towards the nail holes. I found that most of the nails I had originally pried out of the pallets were very much bent out of shape, so I used new nails for all of this re-attachment.  It’s so much easier when they’re straight and sharp!  Nail everything together using the existing nail holes.

Step 6.

Now that you’ve got your “wooden canvas” masterfully assembled, it’s time to begin laying on the words.  Here are my tips on how to print your quote:

-In Photoshop (or a word processor like Microsoft Word), lay your text out, a few words at a time on a standard 8.5×11 template (standard computer paper size).  I found that my average pallet board height was 3”, and I therefore could fit three words per page onto a template for printing.  I ended up printing nine pages, and then I chopped up my papers into individual word strips.

Step 7.

Now patch your printed words together with some good old fashioned scotch tape and lay them out across your board.  I’d recommend only doing one length of board at a time, because I ended up laying across the whole piece to get a good angle, and if you spread out all of the paper on the boards at once, it tends to catch on clothing and peel up. Take a ruler and measure from the tops of the letters to the top of the board to ensure an even line.  Choose letters that are the same height (in my case, those O’s and E’s) to measure the tops of as you slide your ruler along the length of the sentence – that will give you a nice, even measurement of the space between the tops of those letters and the top of the board.

Step 8.

Use duct table to secure your carefully measured paper sentences to the board.  Duct tape peel up nicely in the end, and also holds fast until you need to remove it.

 

Step 9.

Not only do you need to take into consideration your sentence placement on the boards, but you’ve also got to make sure that your wonderful rustic hinges aren’t going to cover up any letters.  Before you start stenciling the outline of your letters, make sure you have a suitable place to attach your hardware.  Go ahead and screw those hinges in to anchor them in place before you proceed with the next letter steps.

Step 10.

Using something sharp and hard (I used a seam ripper, but you can use many many household items), carefully and firmly trace the outline of your lettering onto the wood.  Make sure to really press hard to get that indentation sunk into the wood enough to see when you peel back your paper.  This step gets a little hard on the wrists, but hang in there!  It’ll be worth it in the end, I promise.

Step 11.

Let’s mix up our paints!  I chose not to use stark white, because this whole piece is weathered, old, and charmingly dusky.  So I dropped just a touch of brown into my white paint bowl.  Just barely enough to turn it a soft shade of ivory when it was all mixed in.

Step 12.

After completing step 10 for all of your words and sentences, it’s time to being painting.  Instead of peeling off my entire strip of paper in one swoop, I decided to play it safe, and slice off each letter as I painted it.  That way, if I didn’t make a groove deep enough when I etched it in step 10, I could simply lay the paper back down, give a quick re-etch of the letter, and proceed. So, simply peel back the paper from one of the letters, paint it, use scissors to slice that letter off the paper sentence, and continue.  This is the most time-consuming part, because we’re hand-painting an entire piece (it’s a good time to gear up a movie!)

Step 13.

Once all of your lettering has been painted and has dried, you can flip your piece over and mount your wall-hanging hardware.   The hanging-hardware that you choose is up to you.  You can use wire, metal hooks, brackets, lean it on your mantel, or my personal favorite – earthquake proof hooks (which make me feel better about little kids rambunctiously bumping around the walls and not having art topple on them).  You can find earthquake-proof, large art hanging kits from Amazon.com.

Well Done!

Filed Under: Create & Decorate, Easy Wood Projects, Pallet Projects

7 Woodworking Ideas For Beginners

September 19, 2017 by adminPO

Looking for new ideas for your woodworking projects? Good news! We’re here to help you come up with astonishing yet easy to do wood crafts. Everybody who’s into woodworking knows its benefits. The satisfaction that we feel every time we build something out of wood and turn it into a beautiful piece of art is truly priceless. To some, working on a woodcraft is both relaxing and gratifying. To other craftsmen, it can be a good source of profit. So scroll down and find out some woodworking ideas that can help you create a new useful masterpiece.

7 Woodworking Ideas For Beginners

There are woodworking projects that can be done in no time and there are the ones that need an ample amount of time because of its intricate design. But being a novice to this field or endeavor, it best to start with something less difficult to do. Check out some woodworking ideas below that can be your next potential project.

1 Tree Branch Table

image via manmadediy

If you’re an enthusiast of natural materials but at the same time opting modern aesthetics then this tree branch table project is for you. Check out more details here.

2 Wooden Bungee Organizer

image via brit.co

For those people who has a lot of accessories like sunglasses, neckties and different cables and cords, check out this wooden bungee organizer. Organize your stuff to make it more convenient for you. See full instructions here.

3 DIY Wine Rack

image via etsy

This DIY wine rack adds a rustic appeal to your wall and it is easy to do. Check out the steps in making this cool project here.

4 Adirondack Chair

image via familyhandyman

Spend a wonderful time in your garden or patio reading your favorite novel while lounging on this exquisite chair. Check out more details about this project here.

5 Candle Holder

image via sam

This woodworking project will surely illuminate the dark. Find out how to make this wooden candle holder.

6 Wooden Arrow Decor

image via cherishedbliss

If you’re looking for something that can add appeal to your wall, I suggest you try this awesome yet so easy to do wooden arrow decor. Wanna know how? Check it here.

7 Rustic Pallet Headboard

image via 101pallets

Beautify your bedroom with this rustic pallet headboard. See full instructions here.

Filed Under: Easy Wood Projects

How to Make a Sawhorse | DIY Simple Woodworking Plans

September 18, 2017 by adminPO

 

                         

 

Learning how to make a sawhorse is a very basic woodworking project. They can be made with all manner of wood and be any number of different sizes. The nice thing about making your own sawhorses is you can build them exactly the size you need, so you can make big ones to hold a table, small ones for cutting stands, giant ones for crowd control, etc. The cuts you will be making are all very basic, so if you are new to using power saws, this woodworking project is a good place to start. As always, you can use a handsaw if you’re afraid of heftier tools, though your cuts are not going to be as clean.

How to Make a Sawhorse | DIY Simple Woodworking Plans

Supplies* you will need for this DIY Sawhorse Project:

  • (6) 1×3 lumber at 3 feet in length (you can go bigger or smaller, longer or shorter)
  • (1) 3/4 inch x 5-1/2 inch plank or board at 3 feet in length. This board could be any length, but keep in mind that it will be your work surface and should be long enough to give you a comfortable amount of space to work on.
  • (2) 1×3 lumber at 1 foot in length
  • (1) Drill
  • (1) 1/8 inch Drill Bit
  • (1)Phillips Head Bit
  • (1) Miter Saw
  • (2) Wood Clamps
  • (24) 2-1/2 inch Wood Screws
  • (1) Pencil
  • (1) Measuring tape

*Remember, these board sizes and lengths can easily be changed to make a different sawhorse. These dimensions are just so you can follow along with exactly what we built.

Step 1: Make the legs

Cut four pieces of wood so that they are three feet long. We used 1×3 wood, but you could just as easily use a different sized wood throughout. If you DO use different sized wood, however, be sure and also use that same size wherever we mention 1×3 pieces in this tutorial.

                             
You can use a regular ‘ol handsaw for this as well.

Step 2: Prepare your saw for angled cuts

All miter saws are different, but all follow pretty similar principles. To make angled cuts with a miter, loosen the rubber handle at the front by twisting it counterclockwise.

With your thumb, press down on the lever that is above the handle.

                              
This may not look exactly the same as yours, but it will likely be quite similar.

Rotate the cutting board to 22.5 degrees. We are cutting our boards at 22.5 degrees so they will lay flush against the sides of our sawhorse when it is ready and angle out away from the horse to provide a steady base. Don’t worry if this doesn’t make sense yet, we have a degree in Wood Math from Beaver University…not really.

Step 3: Clamp your legs for easy cutting

After you have cut your four leg pieces, clamp them together with some wood clamps. We are doing this so we can cut all of our legs at once.

Step 4: Make your first angled cut

Make the first 22.5 degree cut to either side of your clamped, 4-board system. It does not mater which side so long as the boards are laying on slim-side as shown. Cut as close to the edge as you can while still getting a full angled cut.

                             
Be sure to practice safety when using power tools.

Step 5: Make your second cut

Cut the other end of the legs as well. Angle the cuts on the other side so that the sides run parallel to each other. Same as the first angled cuts, cut as close to the ends as possible. The end result will look like this:

Step 6: Get your top piece

Grab a board for the top of the sawhorse. We made our top board 3 feet long, which means that our sawhorse will be three feet long. In other words, this will give us three feet of space to saw things on. Your board could be longer or shorter – just pick a length that will give you ample room to work comfortably.

                             
We found this old board lying around the shop.

Step 7: Get those legs on

Attach the legs to the top board with screws. Begin every hole with a drill bit slightly smaller than your screw so that the wood does not split when the screw is fastened. We’re using a 1/8 inch drill bit.

Fasten the leg to the board with a screw. We used 2-1/2 inch wood screws, but any length will work so long as the screw can pass through the board and at least one inch into the leg. Hold the leg flush against bottom of your top board when drilling. The top of the leg should fit perfect under the board while the bottom of the leg should angle out and fit perfectly on the flat floor.

Repeat this so that each leg has two screws attaching it to the board.

Step 8: Do this for every leg

Repeat this for every leg, creating two A shapes on either end of your top board as shown.

                              
Your sawhorse is almost there, but it is a little wobbly. Better add some support braces!

Step 9: Make short support braces.

Clamp two 1×3’s on top of each other and make 22.5 degree angle cuts at each end.

Flip those two pieces over and cut the other ends as well so that the cuts angle towards each other like you see below. Make these boards roughly 1-foot long.

                              
Angle these cuts toward each other.

Step 10: Add the braces

Align these braces with the table legs so that they are flush with the outside of the legs. If they are the same size, they will sit flush at the same height from the floor on both sides. Fasten the braces to each leg with two screws.

As always, begin by first drilling a pilot hole with a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your screw.

                              
Pilot holes prevent the wood from splitting.

Fasten the brace to each leg with four screws, two on each side.

Repeat for the other side.

Step 11: Cut long support braces for the sides

Cut two boards to be the length of the table (again, 3 feet long in this instance). You don’t even need to break out the tape measure again if you don’t want, just place them next to the legs and mark the table’s length with a pencil.

                               
The other board we used for this is a 1×3.

Stack the marked 1×3 on top of another cut them to match, so you have two equal braces. We actually ran out of 1x3s in the shop, so we just used one 1×3 for one brace and a smaller 1×1 board for the other. Hey, you use what you got!

Step 12: Attach long braces

Attach the braces to each leg with two screws. Or, if working with thinner boards, just use one on each side. 

Complete this for both sides and you’ll have a sawhorse that’s great for, uh, sawing stuff.

Filed Under: Easy Wood Projects

22 Easy Woodworking Projects

September 18, 2017 by adminPO

Easy woodworking projects are a great way to test your DIY skills. It doesn’t matter if you’re new to woodworking, these wood craft ideas are cool projects for everyone!

Easy Woodworking Projects for Beginners to Start With

It’s always such an accomplishment when you finish a DIY project you spent time and effort on. Ever since I learned how to use my hammer and nails, every finished project feels exhilarating! True, woodworking projects can be intimidating at first, especially with all the tools you must use. But after completing my first project, I realized it’s just the same as any craft project I work on. Each project just needs a little time and effort… and some passion too! Check out these easy woodworking projects I have for you today!

1. DIY Saw Horse


image via Popular Mechanics

I want to start off this list with a DIY woodworking project that will be very helpful to you. A saw horse always comes in handy, especially if you plan to do tons of woodworking projects in the future. My husband already built us a pair at home, and it’s been working hard ever since! Before you get started on this woodworking project, get one of these extension cords with built-in outlets to help you out!

2. DIY Hanging Planter


image via Bigger Than The Three Of Us

Hanging planters are a big hit nowadays, which gives you no excuse as to why you shouldn’t even attempt to make your own DIY hanging planter. Learn how to work a jigsaw and make this stunning planter to hang in your home.

3. Pallet Wood Wall Art


image via DIY Projects

I’ve got tons of wood wall art signs in our home, and I want more! I used to buy them all, but now, everything’s personalized and customized by yours truly. If you want to try your hand at making these wood crafts, this pallet wood sign tutorial will guide you through.

4. Glowing Table


image via Handimanina

A glowing table? Is this for real? You bet! There’s actually no chemical equations, magic, nor sorcery involved in making this; it’s just plain woodworking and some glow in the dark paint! I think the kids will really love this amazing glowing table!

5. Amazingly Easy DIY Metal Pipe Table


image via DIY Projects

Apart from loving rustic designs, I also have a place in my heart for industrial designs–which is why this DIY metal pipe table is on my list of wood crafts to do. I like the rugged appeal! But best of all, it’s sooo easy to make!

6. DIY Utensil Organizer


image via A Beautiful Mess

I’ve already made my own DIY utensil organizer and man, I love it so much! I’m planning to make another one for my daughter and use it as her personal art kit organizer. You really must do this project because it’s very useful!

7. DIY Wooden Clothes Rack in Under 15 Minutes


image via Chloe Larkin

This fast and easy woodworking project will give you more space for your clothes. It only takes 15 minutes to finish this project. I think this simple DIY wood clothes rack will be the kids’ go-t0 coat hanger from now on.

8. DIY Circle Wood Shelf


image via New Blooming

Oooh! So classy and beautiful, and it just landed a spot on my list of woodworking projects to do ASAP! I can already envision it… potted flowers, a cute small clock, and a couple of picture frames on that DIY circular wood shelf. Effortlessly beautiful!

9. Minimal X-Shaped Coasters


image via Homedit

I don’t think there’s going to be a woodworking project as easy as this one! Do yourself a favor and make these chic X-shaped coasters because it will come in handy when there are guests around.

10. DIY Office Supply Tray


image via Build Basic

Having a hard time finding your office supplies? Put them all in one place with this great DIY organizer. Trust me, you won’t even break a sweat!

11. DIY Holder for Wine Bottle and Glasses


image via Down Home Inspiration

Here’s a craft project for those wine lovers out there. Make this DIY wine glass holder and bring your wine bottle and glasses wherever the party is.

12. Wooden Bookends


image via eHow

This project is really cool! If you have reclaimed wood at home, this is a good project to take on. Add these DIY wooden bookends to your room, and let it be the accent piece your table or bookshelf deserves.

13. Rustic Hook Decor


image via DIY Weekend Wife

Create a rustic hook that doubles as home decor and a great place to hang stuff. I’ve already made a similar wooden hook before. and it has been very useful for storing our clothes.

14. DIY X-Brace Bench


image via Rogue Engineer

This DIY X-brace bench is just too gorgeous not to try to make. It does look a bit intimidating, doesn’t it? I might enlist the help of my husband here, which I’m sure he’ll be happy to do. This bench will look so good in our backyard!

15. Tiered Garden Shelf


image via The Cwafty Blog

If you love gardening, you’ll love this easy woodworking project. You can make your own tiered garden shelf and use it as your planter box or maybe your potting tool organizer, too.

16. DIY Wooden Spoon


image via Fair Goods

You’ll never run out of wooden spoons once you’ve learned this simple wood craft. They make great cooking tools, as well as excellent personalized gifts to friends and family any time of the year.

17. Cute Side Table


image via Her Tool Belt

Have you been looking for a side table that won’t cost you much, but can still make a statement in your living room? This curvy side table is adorably cute and will only cost you $12 to make!

18. DIY Bottle Vase


image via Nur Noch

Do a little upcycling while you’re DIYing. Make this simple DIY wood project and repurpose old bottles into adorable vases. A wooden vase holder adds rustic charm to the whole project!

19. DIY Bottle Opener


image via Shanty 2 Chic

This is a cool, simple project to do for the outdoors or for those who actually have a man cave. This DIY wooden bottle opener makes opening bottles a lot easier, plus, it stores the bottle caps, as well.

20. Easy DIY Birdhouse


image via A Crafty Spoonful

Introduce the kids to woodworking with this easy birdhouse project. Have them help out with painting the birdhouse, too. You don’t need to have birds to recreate this project; they also work well as simple home decor!

21. DIY Wood Cutting Board


image via To Simply Inspire

I like to keep our chopping boards clean and germ-free, which is quite impossible (but I try!). I end up just replacing them every now and then. But since we have a lot of leftover wood, we figured it’s best to just keep making new DIY wood cutting boards instead of buying them!

22. DIY Headboard and Bedframe


image via DIY Projects

If you’re up for an afternoon of building, try this DIY headboard and bed frame. Believe me, it’s not as complicated as it seems.After seeing our list of easy woodworking projects, now you know that wood isn’t really hard to work with. If you have the proper tools and a little know-how, I’m sure you can make one or twenty-two of these DIY wood projects. From planters to tables, get your woodworking gear on and get to work! With some motivation and inspiration, I’m sure you’ll do wonderful things with these easy woodworking projects!

Filed Under: Create & Decorate, Easy Wood Projects

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