Are you someone who loves rustic home decor? Well, that makes two of us! I love shopping for anything and everything rustic. But then, I realized–why was I spending too much money buying rustic home decor when it’s just so much easier to make them?

13 DIY Rustic Home Decor Ideas for A Cozy Home

I’m a huge fan of rustic and shabby chic home decor. It isn’t really my husband’s style, so I try to tone it down here and there. But still, the rustic lover inside me has an insatiable craving and I just cannot ignore it. So, from time to time, I treat myself to DIY projects like these rustic home decor. Let me tell you, they’re oh-so-satisfying and I’m really happy that I have the opportunity to share these ideas with you today! Check out these awesome rustic home decor ideas below:

1. DIY Open Shelving

Do you have a blank wall at home? It would be perfect for this DIY open shelving project! For this one, you will need pine wood shelves and brackets. To achieve the rustic feel, pick a dark wood stain. Not only does it look great, it’s a great way to make use of your vertical space for storage!

2. Vintage Ironing Board Turned Welcome Sign

Who would’ve thought that an old ironing board can turn into a beautiful rustic welcome sign? Thanks to the genius DIY lovers out there, we can now take on this project too! Does it look difficult to make? Don’t worry, there’s no professional woodwork skill required for this one.

3. Herringbone Dresser

Sometimes, a little paint work is all you need to revamp an old piece of furniture. Take this vintage dresser for example. This dresser has been handed down three times. But after repainting, the new color helped highlight the gorgeous rustic wood underneath.

4. Tree Branch Photo Ladder

Is that bare corner in your room bothering you? Maybe it’s actually begging for some redecorating. Instead of hanging your photo frames on walls, hang them on this tree branch photo ladder that will look great in any corner.

5. DIY Rustic Wood Tray

Adding some rustic charm to your kitchen or coffee table is this DIY Rustic Wood Tray. For this project, you will need at least eight pallet boards, screws and white paint. After some work with your screwdriver, you’ll have your little kitchen organizer.

6. DIY Twig Letters

Are you looking for home decor that feels close to your heart? This customized initial made from twig is a project you must do. It’s cute and unsophisticated, which is actually the look we’re going for here.

7. DIY Photo Clipboards

I’m a huge fan of photo frames and I probably have one too many of them in our home. I like seeing our family’s best memories on our walls. But then again, I also look for other ways to display our photos without using the same old frames we can get anywhere. Thus, this DIY Photo Clipboard is definitely on top of my list of must-dos for this week.

8. Stepladder Side Table

If you’re someone who’s searching for a side table that won’t take up much space, you got a winner right here. This DIY Stepladder Side Table is a genius idea! It might take a little more effort to make but look at the final result, it’s a rustic home decor that you can’t get anywhere else!

9. DIY Mail Sorter

I don’t know about you but I had the hardest time looking for a mail sorter. That’s until I found this tutorial and just made my own. The search is over and this beautiful rustic mail sorter hangs right beside our door. I still love it today!

10. DIY Mason Jar Wall Lanterns

I’m a self-confessed Mason jar hoarder and sorry, but I’m not ashamed. Even though my husband teases me that I have too many of them, well, what can I do? I love them! One of the reasons why I like collecting Mason jars is for brilliant projects like this one. These jars are practical and ultra-versatile!

11. DIY Wooden Arrows

The first time I saw these chevron arrows, I knew I had to make them. Unfortunately, I don’t have reclaimed wood on hand yet so I’m putting this project off for later. Nonetheless, that won’t stop me from sharing this cool DIY tutorial with you. Trust me, your bare walls will thank you for it!

12. DIY Paint Stick Basket

You know what, I always see these cute small baskets in home decor stores but I never got around to purchasing them. Lucky for me, I didn’t have to. This DIY Paint Stick Basket tutorial is so easy and affordable to make that I’ve already made three of them. Two of the baskets I used as storage containers and the other one I used a decorative piece for our bookshelf.

13. DIY Rustic Succulent Pots

I’ve always wondered how to achieve the rustic paint look. Thanks to this tutorial, I finally learned how. And more than that, I’ve got more rustic flower pots now too!

If you can’t get enough of these rustic home decor ideas, here are more ideas from GoodLife:

Rustic home decor can easily add an unsophisticated and country-style look to your home in an instant. And the best part of it all is that you don’t have to spend on these too!

Upcycle an old bookcase into an elegant accent piece with copious storage space.  Rustic, charming, and oh-so-functional, you can create a custom look on a crafty budget.  You can whip this project out in a weekend!

Supplies:

-Bookcase.  I found this cheapo old bookcase on Craigslist for $25, what a deal!  There are a few key things to look for in your bookcase.

– Make sure that the sides are completely flat all the way up – you don’t want molding that sticks out around the edges.

– Ideally, the bottom and top of the bookcase will be identical.  If you can’t find one like that, at least make sure that when you set the bookcase on its side, the bottom (which has now become the side) doesn’t look terrible.  Sometimes there are all kinds of screws, braces, and ugly elements in that area, since it’s generally just facing the floor.

-Lumber: One plank of 2”x12”x7ft lumber (if your bookcase is is taller than 6 feet, get longer lumber)

-Lumber: One plank of 1”x”12”x6ft – this is what you will make the cubby shelves out of.

-Wood Glue

-Wood Trim/Moulding.  I went for an elegant rope moulding.

-Wooden embellishments/scrolls/flowers, etc.

-6 Wooden Feet.  If you are doing a short little bookcase, than 4 feet will work fine.  If you’re doing a full size bookcase, 6 feet with provide better stability.

-Wood stain

-Spray Paint.  For the bookcase, you’ll need an undercoat (I used one can of a taupe color), and an overcoat (I used 3 cans of ivory).

-Metal shelf pins to hold up the new shelves that you will be making

-Gorilla Tape

-12x12x12 Cardboard Boxes (10 of them).  Uline.com is always a great source for boxes or many sizes.

-Textured wallpaper.  I found mine on Amazon.com at this link, and needed only one roll to cover all of my cubby bins.

-Black spray paint (satin finish)

-Hammered Copper (or just plain metallic copper) spray paint.

Tools and Things Around the House:

-Hammer

-Nails

-Power saw

-Box cutter/Scissors

-Rubber gloves

-Paper towels

-Paintbrush/Sponge

-Sandpaper

-Tape Measure

-Ruler

Step 1

Using your 1”x12”x6ft lumber, measure the exact space between each of the bookcase shelves, and mark up your board with a pen or pencil.  We are going to be cutting small shelves and inserting one between each of the existing bookshelves of the bookcase.

Step 2

Use a power saw to slice through your board until you have a nice stack of shelves (I needed 5).  Sand the edges of the shelves when you are through cutting them.

Step 3

Turn your bookcase onto its side for this next part.  Now take your heavy 2” width board and lay it flat across the length of the bookcase (which is now on its side).  This thick board will eventually serve as our table top.  I wanted mine to hang out over the edges a bit, so I positioned it how I wanted it, marked it so that I’d have an overlap, and used a saw to slice away the extra on the end.

Step 4

Use sandpaper (or an electric sander) to smooth out the edges of the board you just cut.

Step 5

Take your trim moulding (in this case, my little rope moulding), and lay it along the length of your big board to get a sense for how long you want it.  I wanted my rope moulding to end about 1” from each end.  Cut the moulding to your desired length, and round down the ends with sandpaper.

Step 6

Apply wood glue to both the surface of the moulding and the side of your thick wood plank.  Attach them together, pressing firmly into place.

Step 7

I had a tricky time getting my moulding to stay while it was drying (it was at such an awkward place to try to get clamps on it), so I decided to sink a few nails along the length of the rope.  That worked splendidly!  I then used a moist paper towel to clean up the excess glue while it was still wet.

Step 8

Once all of your glue dries, apply your wood stain with a sponge, brush, or even a paper towel.  If you get the wood stain on your hands, it’s a beast to scrub off, so I would recommend using rubber gloves.

Step 9

Now back over to the bookcase, which is still lying horizontal.  Use wood glue to attach your wooden embellishments to each end of the bookcase.  Once everything is coated in paint, these accents really add a subtle aura of craftsmanship to your piece.

Step 10

The next step is to add our shelves!  To get them to stay up, we need to use our little metal shelf pegs.  Using a drill with the appropriate size drill bit, bore holes for 4 pegs under each shelf (two on each side, just like your average bookcase shelving system).  Once you have the holes drilled, pop your little metal shelf pegs into place.

Step 11

Once you have all of your pegs in place, slide those shelves into place!  Things are starting to take shape now, aren’t they?  In this photo, also notice that I used some of my extra rope moulding on the right side of the bookcase – it helps dress up that extra-wide area on the far right.

Step 12

Tip your bookcase back into the upright position – time to add the legs!  Don’t worry if some or all of your new little shelves flop over, because we’ll be removing those for painting in a moment anyway.  You may as well take them out before you tip up the bookcase.  Once the bookcase is upright, mark the spots where you want your legs to attach and drill holes at those points (only drill holes if your wooden furniture legs have threaded metal pegs at their centers).

Step 13

Apply a small amount of wood glue (less than I have pictured there!) onto the top of the foot pieces.  I applied too much, and it simply gushed out everywhere.  About half of what is pictured will do just fine.  Screw the legs into place, clean off the excess glue, and let it all dry.  While it’s drying, go ahead and do your first coat of undercoat paint.  I only used one can of the taupe spray paint base coat, and I only hit the areas that I wanted to have it show through later (I skipped the inside of the cubbies, since they will be covered by the storage boxes, and just did everything else).

Step 14

Once the base coat is dry, flip your entire piece into the horizontal position again (test out those new legs, yeah!) and spray the top coat.  Once you are happy with the amount of top coat (in my case, the ivory color) that you have applied, attach the “table top” stained wood plank with copious amounts of wood glue.

Step 15

While wood stains, glues, and all of that is drying outside, let’s work on the cubby bins.  Assemble your 12”x12”x12” shipping boxes.  Use the Gorilla Tape to fortify the edges and joints.  The great thing about the Gorilla Taper (verses Duct Tape), is that it has a kind of mesh inside of the adhesive, making it incredibly strong, and inflexible so that it doesn’t warp over time.

Step 16

Once the box is fortified with the tape, it’s time to cover it!  Now, you can cover the entire box, if you want, but I opted to cover the front and just a bit of the sides, bottom, and inside.  It not only saved time, but also ensured that I would have enough on just one roll to complete the project.  As you can see in the picture, I cut a panel that was approximately 20”x20”x20”.

Step 17

Here’s a look at the inside of the box, as I wrap it like a Christmas present.  Use the Gorilla Tape to hold down all of the edges – it provides a nice, strong hold.

Step 18

Once your boxes are covered with the wallpaper, lay them out on a protected surface and spray paint them with the black paint.  Give it a nice, mottled look.

Step 19

Once the black paint has dried, spray over it with the copper spray paint, once again, going for a mottled look.  Doing the black undercoat first really adds a richness and depth to the copper.

Once your boxes are dry, just slide them into their cubby shelves in the bookcase, and you’re done!

Looking for cool pallet projects? If your wall needs a makeover and you don’t think paint is the solution, why not make a wood pallet wall? It’s takes a bit of work but it’s as easy as one-two-three.

How to Build a Wood Pallet Wall | Pallet Projects

I’ve done so many pallet projects in the past and I still can’t get enough of it. Wood pallets are so easy to use once you know a little pallet 101. But needless to say, with wood projects, this is my number one go to.

We’ve been doing some makeover around the house and I felt that I wanted to go with a rustic feel in the bedroom. I don’t want just a splash of new paint, I wanted something different. So my solution, build a pallet wall! It will create an instant rustic feel and it’s also easy to make. Once you’ve deconstructed your pallet the rest will be a breeze. So let’s get started!

What you’ll need for your DIY pallet wall:

• pallets
• safety gloves
• nails
• hammer or nail gun
• wood glue
• wood stain (optional)

Step 1

Deconstruct your pallet. If you plan on doing it one nail at a time, there’s an easier way. See how you can easily deconstruct a pallet here!

Step 2

Prepare your wall by cleaning it or coating it with a fresh coat of paint first.After you’ve prepared the wall measure it with how much pallet you need to use.

Step 3

Apply wood glue to one side of your pallet and stick it on your wall.

Step 4

Hammer the nails in to firmly secure it in place. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you’ve covered your entire wall.

Step 5

Now that you’ve fully covered your wall with pallets, there might be some spaces in the edges. Measure it with your tape measure and cut your pallets in those sizes. Then time to fill up the gaps.

TIP: If you want a more rustic look, you can also paint it with wood stain.

And you’re done! You’ve made a rustic wood pallet wall with repurposed pallets. Wasn’t that an easy wood craft project? You can do it for your bedroom wall as a DIY room decor or on any wall you have around the house!

OOPS! The original video was taken off Youtube – but you can view a similar one here by Valhalla Woodworks.

Looking for a woodcraft that will make a great bedroom decor? Make a DIY headboard that will make you want to stay in bed all the time. This reclaimed wood headboard will be the focal point of your room. If you’re looking for some headboard ideas, here’s one you should try out!

Do you want to learn how to make a reclaimed wood headboard? Customize your headboard and give it a rustic-chic look using reclaimed woods. Instead of heading out to the furniture store, you can DIY your own headboard using reclaimed woods. The beauty and simplicity of solid wood come to together in this easy do-it-yourself headboard.

This easy to build wood headboard is inexpensive and you can finish this in one afternoon! So turn weathered woods into a beautiful headboard with this easy reclaimed wood headboard tutorial and save money! Ready? Let’s begin!

Materials needed for this wooden headboard:

• Pneumatic Air Gun

• Twist Nails

• Drill

• Drill Bit

• Hammer and 2″ Nails

• Sanding Tool

• Saw

• Metal Plates and Half Inch Screws

• Dark Grey Spray Paints

• Ebony Stain

Step 1

Stain the plywood backing. For the backing, we used a piece of plywood that’s 4 ft x 4 ft x 3 1/4″ thick. You can use a roller to stain your backing. Once it’s all over the plywood, you can use a rag to wipe the excess all over it.

Step 2

Design the pattern or layout of the wood. This headboard is 58″ wide x 50″ tall.

Step 3

Cut the wood to match the layout design.

Step 4

Sand the board until all the splinters are gone.

Step 5

Next, you need to stain the raw cut edges and ends of the wood.

Step 6

Nail the finished boards to the plywood backing.

Step 7

Then, screw the metal plates to warped boards where needed.

Step 8

Finally, mount the finished headboard to the wall or bed frame. You can screw it t the wall directly or mount it to the bed frame.

 And you’re done!

This is a really beautiful DIY headboard! Get ready for the dreamiest bedroom after making this cool DIY project!

Check out the full video tutorial on how to make a reclaimed wood headboard below from HOW TO: Live Your Style:

Did you enjoy our reclaimed wood headboard? Let us know in the comments section below what your thoughts are on how to DIY headboard. Do you have any other woodcraft you’d like to share? Share it with us and we’ll give it a try. We love doing cool DIY projects by making craft projects, home decor projects, upcycling ideas, recipes, tutorials and anything you can do yourself. That’s why we created this site, we want people to be more in touch with their creative side and realize that there’s a lot of things that they can do themselves.

Once upon a time…while on a walk around my neighborhood, I came across some discarded apartment building window panes on the side of the road. These windows make the perfect base for a reclaimed wood coffee table if I’ve ever seen one! To add some more magic to this DIY furniture project, I gathered some discarded wood branches to add some extra detail. Combined with moss, fake flowers and a little love, and you have yourself a unique furniture piece made mostly from upcycled (and FREE!) parts!

How To Make a Reclaimed Wood Coffee Table Out Of Windowpanes:  All images and text by Stephanie Michelle at DIY Projects.com

Supplies You Will Need to Build Your Reclaimed Windowpane Wood Coffee Table:

• 2 windowpanes (ideally found, check the free section of Craigslist)
• One quart black matte paint
• One quart white mattte paint
• Two 3 in. chip brush
• Electric sander/sand paper with at least 80 grit paper
• Straight edge ruler or tape measure
• Wood glue
• One 10.1-oz. all-purpose, quick drying caulking with caulk
• Painter’s tape
• Black permanent marker
• Level
• Dust mask
• Bypass pruner
• One box of 2-1/2 exterior screws
• Cordless driver kit
• Four 2″x4″ blocks for your base (just cut a standard piece of 2″ x 4″ lumber into two-inch sections)
• Four 14″ table Legs (available at most hardware stores, you can obviously go bigger or smaller than we did)
• 1 bag of sheet moss
• 1 bag of Spanish moss
• 1 bag of faux flowers on wire
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks
• 20 pieces of found tree branches

Step 1: Sand Down Reclaimed Windows

Elevate your project to make an easier working space. Put on your dust mask!!!

Next, start sanding down the old paint. When sanding, I found it easiest to move your electric sander in small, clockwise circles. Sand until you can feel a slightly rough texture to your wood. Repeat on all sides of both windows. After this step, you can discard your dust mask.

Step 2: Seal Gaps With Caulk

Because I am using vintage windows, I need to reinforce the molding that holds the window glass in place. Bust out your caulking gun and hold it at a 45 degrees angle to your window. Slowly spread the caulking along the edge of the glass until all the panes have been reenforced. If needed, go over work with a straight edge to smooth the caulk, though often the best tool for leveling caulking is the good ol’ human finger. This will take about 30 minutes of dry time for each side, so long as you buy quick-drying caulking.

Step 3: Apply Black Base Coat

Tape all seams of the glass with painter’s tape. Take your brush and apply a solid black coat to all sides of your window. If you get some paint on your window, don’t fret! Allow paint to dry, then take a straight razor to remove.

Step 4: Apply White Top Coat

After the wet paint has dried, take a dry brush and dab your brush into the white paint – a little paint goes a long way with this technique! Start streaking the paint onto the wood. The goal is to show the previous layers of paint to give the illusion of a worn, aged feel. I just love this shabby-chic furniture look. Apply as many coats of white streaks as desired. Apply to all sides of both windows. After you finish this step, you can remove the painter’s tape.

Step 5: Pick Your Side, Mark Your Holes

Before we go any further, it’s time for you to decide which window will be the top of your table and which will be the bottom. As you saw in our finished image at the top of this tutorial, we are separating our two panes with four, pre-made table legs. These legs come in a variety of styles at your hardware store, but they all come with a threaded attachment on the top for screwing into a table.

After deciding which pane will serve as the TOP of our coffee table, we need to affix our table legs. You will be affixing the legs to the underside of the top pane, so flip your pane over. Line your ruler or tape measure to the window’s edge and mark with your pen at the 2-inch down from the corner. Then measure about an inch in from this mark. This is where you will be drilling. You’ll want to do this with all four corners of this pane.

Step 6: Drill Holes For Table Legs

Take your 5/32 inch drill bit from your drill kit and attach it to the drill. Place your drill over the pen mark and drill halfway through the wood. You do NOT need to go all the way through, just far enough that the threaded head on your legs will have room to sit completely inside the holes. Use both hands to brace the drill to keep it steady and in place. Do this to all four corners.

Step 7: Screw In Table Legs To Top Pane

Take your table legs and apply wood glue around the end with the exposed threaded attachment. These ends will be inserted into the holes created on your top pane.

Dab on some wood glue before screwing them in. Your pre-drilled holes are going to be a little smaller than the threads of your legs, which is good, because you can screw them in and tighten them down nice and firmly into the window.

Step 8: Prep The Bottom Pane

Now that the top pane is firmly in place with legs, break out your tape and mark the other pane (which will be our base) in the same corners as you did the top (2-inches down and one inch in from corners). At this point it does not matter which face of the base pane you mark.

Step 9: Dill Through Bottom Pane

Take the same bit you used before and drill ALL the way through your marks on the bottom pane. We will be affixing the other side of the table legs with screws because these ends of the legs are not threaded (as the ends of the table legs traditionally sit on the ground and not in-between two windows!).

Step 10: Screw Bottom Pane Into Legs

Take the top pane with the legs currently attached and flip it over. Place the bottom pane on top of the legs as shown below. Here we are looking at our table upside down.

Line up your legs so they are centered under the holes you already put through the bottom pane, then pre-drill through the window and into each leg so that your screw will eventually go right down into the center of the legs.

Then finish off by screwing each leg down, one screw into each.

Step 11: Add Blocks (“Feet”) To Table

With the table still flipped over, it’s time to add the real feet to the bottom of your table. If you have purchased your 2 x 4 wood at a home improvement store, you can have them cut it into four-2-inch sections if you aren’t comfortable using a saw. You can also use the handsaw at said stores if you don’t own one. Place the wood blocks at each of the 4 corners.

On our windows, there was a little molding in the way near the edges, so we just put them as close to the edges as we could.

Use the 5/32 -inch drill bit again and drill holes into the feet through to the window wood. Use the screw attachment and some more of your exterior screws to secure each foot to the table.

Then paint your legs and feet as desired. We decided to make everything black!

 Step 12: Cut Branches

I collected about 20 pieces of discarded branches. Each branch should be the same height as your table leg. Measure each branch with your ruler and mark off where you need to cut. Use a bypass pruner or shears to trim branches to the correct length.

Step 13: Drill Holes For Branches

Use the black pen to mark where you would like to have your mini trees take root on the bottom frame of your table. Drill completely though the frame to make way for to make holes for the screws with the 5/32 inch drill bit.

Step 14: Prepare Branches

Next, drill into the branches that will be connected to the window base. You don’t have to drill far, just enough for a bit of the screw to grab hold. An half-inch should be plenty, just eyeball it based on the size of the branches you use. If you chose super tiny branches, try wood glue instead.

 Step 14: Screw In Branches

Use the screw bit and screw through the frame and into each branch. If the screws happen to peak through, don’t worry, we will be covering them with moss. Flip your table right side up and admire your work – you are almost done!

Step 15: Decorate Branches

Time to make this table enchanting! Hot glue moss on the base of the coffee table, sides, on the branches – anywhere you like! Add flowers to give color and a soft romantic feel. I found these faux flowers attached to wire, which worked great for twisting over the branches. You can also roll the Spanish moss in your hands to create thicker moss vine-like pieces too!

Now you have a coffee table that is right out of a story book! Enjoy your reclaimed wood coffee table that is sure to be a conversation starter at ay home gathering or event.